Riesling Trocken ls low sulphite 2012
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This Trocken ls, or a selection of the Trocken produced with almost no added sulphites, is Clemens’ attempt to understand and continuously evolve in the direction of absolutely natural wines. Discussing non-sulphite wines has become very trendy, with the conventionalists poo-pooing this method at all costs, and many so-called natural producers promoting it at all costs, even if that implies oxidizing or ruining wines. Conventional wisdom dictates that a wine without added sulphites will oxidize, lose its varietal character, and prematurely deteriorate. For a long time this wisdom has been so pervasive that it has left little room for discussion or research.
Now, a new generation of wine producers with the belief that wine should, if possible, only contain grapes (a rather logical scenario, it would seem to me), is trying to understand how to create good wine without additives. Clemens has been tasting a lot in Italy and France, and testing how far he can go toward reducing sulphites, the only additive he uses), without losing the varietal character of Riesling which he loves. He makes it clear that so far his experience has not succeeded in producing a wine completely free of sulphites, although he agrees that there are wines in Italy without added sulphites, while retaining their character without oxidizing nor deteriorating. Clemens explains this as presumably being due to the northern climate and the varietal characteristics of Riesling.
Thus, Clemens does not (yet) produce a sulphite-free Riesling, but his Riesling Trocken ls is possibly as close as anyone has ever come with Riesling. For consumers who will only drink important old-fashioned Mosel Riesling, i.e. low alcohol, high residual sugar content, lots of sulphites to keep the crispness on the knife’s edge, this wine is not for you. If on the other hand you enjoy many of our other wines and you enjoy Riesling without needing to stereotype it, have fun.
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